New techniques ahead

With the new collection, I've taken a few new directions when it comes to fabric manipulation and zero waste design. I like to think it would be a interesting to others the process from inspiration to production, and wanted to highlight some of those paths.

I've been following a few Instagram accounts that are the fiber arts for famous fashion houses. Lesage and Pleat are so great for inspiration and sparked the idea. Plus beautiful lines like Julia Heuer and Issey Miyake, of course!

My research usually starts by checking if I have a book on it (9 times out of 10 I do) and then several long scrapes of the internet. I love when people ask about where I find my fabrics. If you only knew how much sleuthing is involved! 

Pleats have been around since (at least!) ancient Egypt and I knew it was possible to make it permanent, look at the Delphos Gown, for example. That's from the early 1900's!

Due to the nature of my inquiries, I often end up on a historical custumery site or a craft discourse board. This time I found a mention on a Lord of the Rings fandom site (!!!). If that gives you an idea of the combing involved. 

My first question: how to do it? Second Question: how to make it permanent?

The first question led me down a path I'm very familiar with, namely different historical ways of the first step in the process of 'Tie Dye.'

There are a lot of resources into, for example, the Japanese shibori but fewer insight into permanent pleating. I'm going to help you here, TLDR, you CAN make it permanent with chemicals but you really don't have to! Like with so many other fiber arts, it just requires time and practice. 

Nailing the right material was an even shorter process as I stuck with a thin silk. My attempts with mixed fibers led to...mixed results. Cotton just doesn't crease the same. I can't wait to show you the final looks! 

Talk soon 

-Meg